Cascade Mountains West Coast Imperial IPA

From Northern Brewer: Cascade Mountains West Coast Imperial IPA All-Grain Kit


Imperial IPA used to essentially mean a “doubling” of everything in a recipe - dating from the time when kings and emperors would receive a brewer’s best efforts as tribute. In modern times, early efforts at west coast brewing powerhouses such as Stone, Rogue, and Blind Pig often did take that simple of an approach - start with a basic IPA, and make it times two. Over time, themes and variations came about that tweaked the formula. Preference shifted away from malt-dominators, towards a leaner, crisper, less sweet-finishing beer. The hopping regime also shifted from simply “more hops at more times” to later and later in the boil, spilling over heavily into the dry hop. The end result is a hop-dominated, high alcohol beer that threatens yearly hop supplies with it’s obsession over the richest oils and aromatics.

O.G: 1.086 READY: 6 WEEKS

Suggested fermentation schedule:
-- 1-week-primary,-2-3-weeks-secondary, -2-3-weeks-bottle-conditioning-

MASH INGREDIENTS
-- 10-lbs.-Rahr-2-row-
-- 4.5-lbs.-English-Maris-Otter
-- 0.50-lbs.-Briess-Caramel-10-

MASH SCHEDULE: SINGLE INFUSION
Recomended: Sacch’ Rest: 151° F for 60 minutes-Mashout: 170° F for 10 minutes
Actual: 1.4q/lb strike water to 152F. Added 5g of burton salts to mash, mash pH 5.5. At 30 min temp was 149F, with decent conversion. Temp maintained to 65 min. Added 2 gal boiling water to a temp of 160F until 80 min, then started recirculating. Added 0.5 tsp of pH 5.2 to the sparge water  to pH 6.5. Lautered 7.5 gal to the kettle in 40 min.


BOIL ADDITIONS & TIMES
-- 1 oz. Summit (FWH) -add to kettle as wort drains from the mash tun
-- 1 oz. Summit (60 min)
-- 2 oz. Cascade (20 min)
-- Whirlfloc
-- 2 lbs Corn sugar (5 min)
-- 2 oz. Cascade (0 min) -Steep for 15 minutes after turning off heat
--Cool for 30 min with immersion chiller. Whirlpool and settle for 20. Lots of trub got into the carboy. With so many hops, I might use a hop bag next time I brew  big beer. I let the trub settle for 2 hours then siphoned the wort into another vessel. Still got a lot of trub, but not as bad.
O.G. 1.079. My OGs are typically low, think I need to add less water to the mash so I can sparge a greater volume.

FERMENTATION
-- Pitched two 11.5g packets of rehydrated (90F, cool to 75F) Danstar-BRY-97-West-Coast-Ale-Yeast into 70F wort (4.5 gal). Fermentation picked up after 12hrs at 66-68F. At day 4 the fermentation was still going strong, with a big krausen. Frementation slowed by day 6 and the krausen fell by day 8. Day 9 was hot and temp jumped o 70F. Used a wet towel on day 10 to drop the temp to 66F. Gravity at day 12 was 1.008. The beer was still very hazy with yeast. By day 15 the beer began to clear up a bit. Racked to a secondary on day 17. On day 18 I wrapped a wet towel around the carboy and blew a fan on it to cool down to 62F, which helped drop the yeast out. Temp was held at -62-64 until day 21, when I started the dry hop. The temp gradually raised and stabilized at 68F.

-- Dry hop 2 oz. Cascade at day 1 of dry hop and 2 oz. at day 3. Temp range 67-69F. On day 28 I bottled 42 bottles (114g corn sugar). FG 1.008, ABV 9.3%.

Conclusion
This is a big beer and I think it fermented too warm as it has a pretty fusel character to it that is a bit too much. I'll let this beer condition for awhile and see how it matures. I'll loose all the hop character but not much choice at this point. Just speaks to the importance of temperature control.

Conversion progress with iodine test

Sparging

Into the kettle

The boil

The wort

12 hours after pitching

Day 4

Dry hop

Black IPA

Norther Brewer: Black IPA All-Grain Kit

An ebony pint with a beige head is surrounded by an aromatic citrus-and-pine force field, backed by a smooth roastiness redolent of cocoa and French roast coffee. Full-bodied, hop-bitter, and boozy, this beer is compelling enough to both fuel and quash the argument of its stylistic integrity, and it goes great with a blue cheese stuffed sirloin burger or steak.

O.G: 1.075 READY: 6 WEEKS

Suggested fermentation schedule:

-- 1–2 weeks primary; 1–2 weeks secondary; 2 weeks bottle conditioning

MASH INGREDIENTS

-- 11.5 lbs. Rahr 2 row pale

--.5 lbs. Briess Caramel 80L

--.375 lbs. Weyermann Carafa III

--.375 lbs. English Chocolate Malt

MASH SCHEDULE: SINGLE INFUSION

Recommended: Sacch’ Rest: 152° F for 60 minutes. Mashout: 170° F for 10 minutes.

Actual: Add 5 g burton salts and 4 g gypsum to the mash. Add 20q 172F water to 152.5F. At 30 min good conversion, temp 150F. At 60 min the conversion looks done, temp 148F. Add 2 gal boiling water at 70 min for a mashout temp of 162F. I think I need to add less water to the mash so I can get a proper mash out and have more room for sparging. Recirculated for 10 min, then lauterd 7.75 gal into the kettle. 

BOIL ADDITIONS & TIMES
--90 min boil, so not hop addition until 60 min
-- 1 oz. Summit (60 min)
-- 1 oz. Chinook (15 min)
-- 1 oz. Centennial (10 min)
-- 1 oz. Cascade (5 min)
-- 1 lb Corn sugar (5 min)
-- 1 oz. Centennial (0 min)
--Cooled with immersion chiller for 35 min to 68F. Whirlpool, then settle for 20 min. Wort was very clean into the fermenter until the end. I forgot the elbow joint on the spigot so had to lean the kettle to get the rest of the wort in the fermenter. Got about an inch of trub. O.G. 1.071

FERMENTATION
Pitched two rehydrated (80F, let cool to 70F) 11.5 g packets of Safale US 05 Ale Yeast into 66F wort. Optimum temp: 59°–75°F. Placed fermenter in a fridge with a Ranco temp controller and a FermWrap Heater, and set the temp to 67F.  After 12 hours the fermentation started to pick up and the temp held at 67F. The fermentation went at a steady pace for 4 days then began to slow and on day 5 the krausen began to drop. On day 9 the gravity was 1.013, which seems about right for this dark brew, so I racked the beer to a secondary for dry hopping. A sip of the hydrometer test tube was delicious without a trace of off flavors... yea temp control!!!

DRY HOPS
-- 1 oz. Cascade on day 9 added immediately after racking to a secondary. Three days later 2oz more Cascade were added. The first oz in the carboy seemed covered with yeast. Being a dark beer, I can't really tell how much yeast is in suspension, but since it's US-05, which doesn't flocculate well, I suppose a fair amount. Let the dry hop go a week then bottled with 114 g corn sugar as primer to 3.8 gal for 2.8 vol of CO2. F.G. was again 1.013(so 7.5% ABV), and the beer tasted good!  A week later there was a relatively thick layer of yeast in the bottles, so I guess a fair amount hadn't flocculated.

Why do I care how much yeast is in the beer? There was an article in the May/June 2013 Zymurgy examining dry hop aromas with and w/o yeast and the yeast appear to modify the aroma. The beer "that had no yeast produced a beer with grapefruit aroma and flavor closely associated with Cascade hops, while the beer with yeast had a rose water/geraniol (or geranium) aroma".  I think I like the grapefruit aroma so next time I think I'll do a cold crash step before the dry hop and see how that impacts hop aroma.

After just a week in the bottle the beer is already well carbonated. I guess that's one perk of having a lot of yeast in suspension. The beer tastes good! Another perk with this brew is the time to make it; with temp control the beer went into the bottle after 16 days vs a month of my typical room temp brew. If I finned, filtered, kegged and forced carbed, that would approach what the commercial brewers are doing. Even with bottle conditioning, I'm at just over three weeks. I cold-crashed for two weeks to drop out yeast and haze particles and I called it done.

The brew

Quick conversion

The mash

Into the kettle

Clear runnings

The boil. I used a hop bag.

Fermentation temp control!!

Day 3, fermentation chugging along nice and steady

John Palmer's Elevenses

All Grain Kit obtained from Northern Brewer: John Palmer's Elevenses All Grain Kit

Like all high adventures, it started out with a seemingly simple quest: Brew a beer worthy of our favorite characters from a far-off fantasy realm. One that would fill flagons in a shire as easily as it would stream from golden goblets in the halls of storied kingdoms. Two years, 10 test batches and much muttering of “my precious” later, we have the answer: John Palmer’s Elevenses Ale.

It is, quite simply, the One Brew to Rule Them All. Mild enough to break out before mid-day, yet fortified with notes of toasty malt and herbal hops to sustain weary travelers whenever the road goes on and on.

It’s an ideal session beer - though be forewarned there are some reports that frolicking and fellowship may ensue. Whether you’re looking to toast this year’s big winter blockbuster with a fitting brew, or simply seeking a top-notch brown ale with a taste for adventure, try Palmer’s Elevenses Ale. It’s pure fantasy, come to life.

O.G: 1.045 READY: 4 WEEKS

Suggested fermentation schedule

-- 1-2 weeks primary; 1-2 weeks bottle conditioning

MASH INGREDIENTS

-- 5.5 lbs Maris Otter

-- 1 lb Briess Caramel 60

-- 1 lb Weyermann Oak Smoked Wheat Malt

-- 0.5 lbs English Brown Malt

-- 0.33 lbs Flaked Oats (see Brewer's Note)

-- 0.25 lbs Chocolate Malt

MASH SCHEDULE: SINGLE INFUSION

Recommended: Sacch’ Rest: 154° F for 60 minutes. Mashout: 170° F for 10 minutes.

Actual: Added 5 g of burton salts to the mash. Added 4 gal of 166F strike water to 149F. At 10 min added 1 gal boiling water to 155F. At 30 min 155F with good conversion. I think the burton salts are speeding up the conversion compared to mashes in straight, very soft, EBMUD water. At 60 min the conversion looks complete. Add 1 gal boiling water to 160F for mash out. Recirculate for 10 min then into the kettle for a total of 7 gal. 

BOIL ADDITIONS & TIMES

0.60 oz German Northern Brewer (60 min)

Cooled in 20 min to 70F with immersion chiller. O.G. 1.045. Whirlpool and settle for 20 min. Tried using a wire mesh on the spigot but it clogged. I had to mess up the settled trub to get the brew out... failed procedure. Got lots of trub into the fermenter. Aerate for 2 min with oxygen.

FERMENTATION

-- Pitched one 11.5 g packet of rehydrated Safale-S-04 Ale Yeast into 70F wort. Optimum temp: 64-75°F.  The fermentation started up in about 6 hours and went for 48 hr at 66-68F. The F.G. at day 12 was 1.014, so 4% alcohol. F.G at day 17 was the same, so I bottled with 4oz of corn sugar for priming to a total of 4 gallons for 2.7 vol of CO2. After two weeks in the bottle the carb wasn't great and the brew had a bit of a harsh aftertaste I associate with roasted malt. At 2.5 weeks, the harshness had diminished some and carb was better. I think I'll keep sampling these beers until the flavor balances out before refrigerating them. After a few weeks in the fridge the brew is still pretty smokey, which I guess is what you might expect with smoked malt! Not bad, but a bit roasty for my tastes. I'm leaving a few at 70F and a few in the fridge to see how the flavor develops at different temps. We shall see.

The brew

Quick conversion followed using iodine assay

 The boil

The wort

Day 1 of fermentation

After 1 week of fermentation

Crimson King: A deep red malty 130 IBU 9% ABV Imperial IPA

Hail the Crimson King!

I've thrown myself into brewing full force lately and after brewing up about 10 batches (mostly all grain) from kits, I decided it was time to brew up my own recipe. I'm a die-hard fan of IPAs and have really been enjoying double and Imperial IPAs so I've decided to go with what I know and love for my first homegrown all grain recipe. Yea yea, I know, everyone says to brew more simple beers whilst learning the ropes of brewing but I'm not one to listen to such sage advise and must make all those mistakes on my own:) Hey, for my penance I will drink every last drop of what I brew, minus what I can give away to my friends, those suckers, foolish suckers.

IPAs tend to be on the lighter side, but I always find myself craving a bit more maltiness in my brew. So, I've decided to make a Red Imperial IPA with some crystal 120L and chocolate malt to give me a brew with a little more caramel backbone and a reddish color running at around 14 SRM.  Being a fan of Stephen King, I just had to name it Crimson King. I wanted to go big on aroma hops (8 oz of dry hops), so I decided to counter all that aroma with a whopping dose of bitterness.. almost 130 IBU!!!!! This brew recipe will surely be a king with all those hops and a smooth 9% ABV. I really like Hopageddon, which has 144 IBU and loads of hop aroma so decided to go for it with this brew.

Below is a screenshot of the recipe on Brewtoad, You can find it here.

MASH

All mash and sparge water was treated with filtration through activated carbon and a campden tablet. Added 175F strike water to 149F for 45 min, which after stirring dropped to 143F. Added 1 gal of boiling water to 155F. At 60 min the temp was 150F, and at 80 min 148F. Added 1 gal of boiling water to 155F and 1 tsp of gypsum. At 100 min the conversion looked complete so added 2 gal boiling water to 165F for mash out.  Recirculated 3 gal quick then slower for 10 more min. Lautered the wort into the boil pot, with continuous sparging until I reached 7.75 gallons in the pot.  Also did a second runnings and collected 3 gallons.

BOIL- 75 min

Boiled 15 min before first hop addition, 2 oz Chinook. Columbus at 30 and 10 min before end of boil. Added whirlfloc and 1 lb corn sugar at 10 min. Cooled with immersion chiller 45 min... the chiller is really slow since the tap water here is so warm. OG 1.085 

Second runings. Boiled 60 min. 0.5 oz palisade hops and 60 and 10 min in boil. 1/2lb corn sugar and whirlfloc at 10 min. Chilled to 70F in 25min.  OG 1.043.

FERMENTATION

Poured cooled wort into a carboy, let settle for 2 hours, then siphoned to another carboy, but still pulled in an inch of trub (there was a ton!). Made a 2.5L starter with two packages US-05, stirred on stir plate for about 24 hr at 69F, then cold crashed overnight in fridge, warmed to room temp then pitched into the carboy. Fermentation went strong for a week, starting at  at 70F and varying as low as 66F (avg 68F), then slowed and temp dropped to 64F and fluctuated between that and 68F for about a week. At two weeks FG was 1.016, so 9.0% alcohol. 

Dry hopped directly into the primary 6 oz (2 cascade and 4 centennial). The brew tastes like SN bigfoot barely wine, very balanced and no off flavors. The dry hops should bring it back from barely wine territory into the realm of Imperial IPA, I hope. Otherwise, it will be a good hoppy barely wine:) I shook the carboy once a day for the first 3 days of the dry hop to make sure the hops mixed well with the beer as the whole hops are floaters... think next time I'll use the whole hops in the boil and the pellets in the dry hop. On day 4 of the dry hop, I sampled the brew and it just wasn't hoppy enough, so I added 2 oz more of cascade pellets.  I wanted to experiment with dry hopping on the yeast cake, but I think the flavor I'm looking for is more prominent with less yeast around to modify the hop aroma. That said, there was still a lot of yeast in suspension so the flavor may develop once the yeast has dropped out. After six days total of dry hopping, I bottled (114 g of corn sugar for priming in 3.9 gal of 2.8 vol of CO2). The whole hops made it very difficult to siphon the beer and I got lots of yeast and hops in the bottles. In hind sight, I should have racked to a secondary for a day of settling, or even better, not use whole hops for the dry hop.  Let the bottles carb at ~68F for 2 weeks then into the fridge. 

The flavor of this beer has changed considerably from the secondary to the bottle before the fridge to after two weeks in the fridge. At first it had a malty backbone similar to SN bigfoot, then that smoothed out into a more caramel flavor in the bottle, and after two weeks at 32F the cold haze has cleared and the backbone has lightened up, letting the hop aroma and bitterness come through... a little bit. The beer has a very caramely smell to it and the malt backbone is so big that it almost too perfectly balances the hop aroma so that it's hard to perceive.... until you burp up a blast of cascade aroma! It's still fairly young for such a big beer so we'll see how it tastes when the beer flavor finally stabilizes.  It's a good beer but the volume of the malt and the hops is turned way up, making it more of a dessert than anything else. I think I might make another toned down version of this, dropping the corn sugar and honey malt, dialing the IBUs to 100 and the dry hop to 4 oz.

Second runnings fermentation: 

Poured the whole chilled boil into a 5 gallon carboy and pitched 100ml of the starter above. Fermented between 66 and 68F for a few days. Two weeks in primary, FG 1.003.  Bottled a case with 55g of corn sugar. Put in the fridge after 2.5 weeks  in the bottle and the chill haze cleared out in two weeks. Tastes like PBR... too lite for my tastes but not a bad session beer for a hot day at the lake. 

The Beer

The Setup

Inexpensive three tier setup with milk crates

Fly sparge

I use a turkey fryer to heat strike/sparge water

Bayou classic stove

The Kettle

Iodine test

Wort with a bit of copper color

In primary.

Dang that's a lot of hops!!!

After a few days.. and a shake

Difficult to rack off whole hops... Lots of sediment into the bottle

Dead Ringer IPA water off: tap vs spring water... conclusion it's a draw!

Trouble Oh trouble set me free I have seen your face 
And it's too much too much for me 

So, I've been having some trouble with haze in my all grain brews, thus the Cat Stevens, and I think I've tracked it down to the mash. I'm either getting some starch haze due to low mash temps or perhaps some grist due to crappy recirculation. Also, I've been getting a non-hop bitter taste in my beers that I think is from the chloramine in the water, despite 1/2 a campden tablet. Ahh, so many things to work out. Well, I'm always up for a challenge and decided to have some fun and to do a brew-off to work out some of the kinks in my brewing process. I brewed two 5 gallon batches in the same day... took 9 hours@~@. In the right corner we have the clean the clear the predictable "spring water" (SW) from a grocery store near you and in the left corner we have the cheap the tainted the hopeful "tap water" (TW) that we've prettied up with an activated carbon filter from More Beer and a full campden tablet.  I'll let them slug it out in my mouth in a month or so:) We'll see about the bitter flavor after they brew up... should go faster with the use of a starter this time... actually had to use a blow off tube!

And while I'm at it, I might as well crack that haze nut: I upped the mash time to 90 min and made an effort to step up the mash temperature during the 90 min period. To make sure my mash is actually doing what it's supposed to, convert starch to maltose,  I monitored starch conversion with an iodine test so I could be  sure the job was done before moving on.... and it does in fact take more than 60 min in my setup. I also ditched the hop bag and added whirlfloc to the boil, hoping to get better break in my boil. In the end there was a lot more trub to deal with, but what do you know, clear freaking beer! Woo!!

Finally, I got a lot of good "advise" from the Beer Geeking guy who seems to have gone through a lot of trial and error before attaining "good-brew" status, and he has kindly distilled those experiences in his blog, check it out.

So, back to beer.  What shall I brew?  Well that dear ringer IPA is damn fine if I say so myself and 4 cases sounds good to me!

Dead Ringer is an homage to a benchmark of the American IPA style that’s brewed in Michigan. American base malt and crystal malt create the big body and supporting grainy sweetness, while charge after charge of 100% Centennial hops deliver pronounced bitterness with a dominant citrus aroma and flavor. In the glass you get a pale amber color, hop intensity and malt density - substance with the soul of a session beer.

O.G: 1.064 READY: 6–8 WEEKS
Suggested fermentation schedule:
- 1–2 week primary; 2–4 weeks secondary;
2 weeks bottle conditioning


STARTER CULTURE
1300ml bottled water, 1 cup light DME, boil 10 min, cool with ice bath in pot, add to 2L flask, pitch 100ml rehydrated US-05 yeast, and incubate on stir plate for 17-20hrs. Used this stir plate kit: Stir Starter


MASH INGREDIENTS
- 11 lbs. Rahr 2-Row
- 1 lbs. Briess Caramel 40

MASH SCHEDULE: SINGLE INFUSION
Sacch’ Rest: 152° F for 60 minutes
Mashout: 170° F for 10 minutes

Spring water mash: 16q of 170F water to a mash temp of 152F. After 40 min temp dropped to 150, 60 min down to 146.5. Added 2q boiling water to 150F. At 70 min 2q boiling water added to 154.5. At 80 min 2q boiling water to 158F. Forgot gypsum so added 1tsp and 2tsp pH 5.2 mix; pH went from 5.6 to 5.2. At 90 min added 5q boiling water for mashout at 163F for 10 min.  Recirculate: flush 2 qal quickly to pull off grist from bottom, then slowed to 1q/min for 10min. The out flow was very clear! Sparge water at 170F, 5gal (2tsp 5.2 added). My boils have reduced the wort a bit low so I added 7.25 gal to the pot. Heat to boil 15min. OG 1.055 but expected because of the extra wort in the brew pot (boiled down to 6 gal).

Tap water mash: tap water was run through activated carbon filter and treated with 1 campden tablet the night before. Strike water heated to 175F, 14q added to 153F. After 10 min added 1tsp gypsum and 2tsp of pH 5.2 (another 2 tsp to sparge water). At 30 min 149F. At 45min 3q boiling water to 154.5F. At 60 mi added 2q boiling water to 158F. At 90 min added 3q of boiling water to 163F for 10 min. Recirculate: flush 2 qal quickly to pull off grist from bottom, then slowed to 1q/min for 10min. Clear out flow! Sparge water at 170F, 5gal. My boils have reduced the wort a bit low so I added 7.25 gal to the pot (boiled down to 6 gal). Heat to boil 15 min. No OG because I dropped my hydrometer!!!

BOIL ADDITIONS & TIMES
0.75 oz. Centennial (60 min).... actually added 1oz
1 oz. Centennial (20 min)
1 whirlfloc tab (10 min)
2 oz. Centennial (5 min)
SW boil cooled in 35min to 72F while TW boil cooled in 50min. About 1 inch of trub in each carboy.

DRY HOPS
1 oz. Centennial – add to secondary fermenter
one to two weeks before bottling day

YEAST
DRY YEAST (DEFAULT): Safale US-05.
Optimum temperature: 59–75°F
Pitched 600ml starter to SW wort at 72F, and 600ml to TW wort at 70F.

FERMENTATION:
Pitched 600ml of a starter culture into SW brew at 72F and the TW brew at 70F (2.5 hours later). SW showed activity 4 hours later while the TW brew took a bit longer ~8 hours. Both were fermenting strong with a hefty head of krausen the next day and were holding at around 70F (see video below). I had to put a blowoff tube in the TW batch on day two because it clogged the airlock. The fermentation continued between 66 and 70F for 4 or 5 days then slowed and the krausen fell at 6(SW)-7(TW) days. Racked to a secondary on the 8th day. I used a CO2 bike tube inflator to flush CO2 into the secondary before racking. A quick taste of each and the SW seems a bit more crisp than the TW, but both taste good, nice and bitter needing those dry hops! After 3 days in the secondary the TW batch looks more clear than the SW batch.  I added 1oz of centennial hops after a week in the secondary, then bottled 6 days later. The temp ranged between 64-66F. The FG on both beers was 1.01, so around 6% alcohol with the OG of 1.055.

BOTTLING
At bottling (4oz corn sugar) both beers tasted good!  The SW is a bit smoother on the mouth and the TW has a more crisp feel, which I prefer in an IPA. Both brews were also very clear, so I think my "flush out" before the laughtering helped a lot, that and the extra 30 min in the mash. I let the bottles carbonate for 3 weeks then chilled to 32F. A cold haze formed and dropped out after two weeks.

CONCLUSION
Both beers are a bit on the bitter side (maybe shouldn't have added the extra 0.25oz of hops at 60min) and I just feel like they need more hop flavor... maybe a few more ounces in the dry hop.  Head retention is good on both. As for off flavors, I perceive a bit of solventy notes in both... maybe some fusel alcohols from the high ferm temps.. will try to keep them down at 66-68F, at least for the first few days.  Besides that there are distinct differences in flavor. The SW is smoother feeling, but almost too soft, especially for an IPA. The TW is more crisp with a drier finish. At this point, both my wife and I like prefer the tap water version. Update, after 2 months in the fridge the beers have matured nicely, and the TW has a more apparent estery profile, one that is less prominent in the SW. Due to that the SW takes the lead in flavor, but both beers taste good and since the esters are likely due to the fermentation temp, I'd say that both the tap water (carbon filtered and campden tab) and spring water work just fine. It's a draw.

The brew

Iodine test of Spring Water mash

OG 1.055: A little low. Clear wort!

Pitched that yeast!

 Tap water mash iodine test.

Tap water brew.

Pitched yeast... broke my hydrometer!!

16 hours after pitching

Day two and had to go blowoff on the TW.

TW Day 2: krausen!

Dry hops

4 cases of brew!