Saturday, January 26, 2013

Mashing made easy: ice cream maker mash mixer

In order to maximize the efficiency of starch conversion to fermentable sugars during the mash, it is essential to maintain an even temperature distribution by thoroughly mixing the grain and water.  You can do this manually by opening the lid and stirring every 10 or 15 minutes, but automating this process will free you up to do other things and make the brewing process more enjoyable. I have looked around and seem many creative ideas homebrewers have come up with, but none more simple and inexpensive than using an old ice cream maker motor!

Here's a video of one simple design:

This video inspired me to attempt to make my own mash mixer with an unused ice cream maker in my garage that I purchased off amazon for $25.




I have a 10 gallon mash tun from Northern Brewer:
All-grain System Mash Tun - 10 gallons
Pic of 7529

In addition to the ice cream maker, I bought a 2' x 1/2" copper pipe ($5), male and female fittings for the pipe so that I could easily detach it from the motor ($5; optional), and some zip-ties ($2).


Here's how I made it:
1. Cut the pip into a 5" and 15 1/4" sections. Add the male fitting to the short tube and the female to the long one. Solder them in place.

2. Epoxy the lid of the ice cream to the motor shaft being sure not to glue the motor to the housing (it won't turn if you do!). Then glue the shore pipe into the inside hole of the lid.



3. Cut 2" off the bottom of the outer ice cream bucket.



4. Drill an 1 1/4" hole in the top for you mash tun lid. Do it slowly or the plastic will crack.




5. Place the blue ice cream maker bucket on top of the mash tun lid, centered. Mark 4 spots on the lid on either side of the bucket. Drill two holes on each side of the 4 marks so that you can run zip ties through them. Drill four holes in the side of the bucket to run the zip ties through. Add zip ties. Duct tape the zip ties on the bottom of the lid to prevent moisture from getting inside the lid.



6. To make the mixer blade, draw two 4 x 7 1/2" squares on the ice cream maker aluminum inner bucket, and drill 8 x 1 1/4" holes in them. The cut out and flatten the two pieces.



7. Attach the flattened pieces to the plastic blade that came with the ice cream maker with 4 zip ties each, and curve as you like. Add this blade to the end of the long copper tube, ~ 1" inside the tube (you can heat the copper tube with a blow torch to make this easier... do it in a vented room).  Drill a hole through the copper tube and plastic blade and add a 1/2' metal screw to fasten (the drill bit broke off in mine so no screw necessary).



8. Place the lid over the mixer blade shaft, then screw it into the motor fixing and you are done! You can add a switch or a timer to the plug if you want to make it easier to turn on and off.



Note!  It's important to reduce both shear and oxygenation in the mash, both of which depend on your mixer design and mixing speed. I made this mixer tall by design, but have a feeling I will shorten it once I've tested out in an actual mash, if it A) rises above the grain bed B) vortextes the mash, or C) causes the mash to rotate with the blade.  If I do, I'll likely bring the blade down to 3" tall and turn it  away from the direction of rotation . I'll test this design out, and update this post.

So, after testing it out, there is quite a bit of drag using the "larger blade". Fortunately,  I still have the other half of the aluminum bucket from the ice cream maker so I decided to make an alternate blade that is shorter and has a thinner profile going through the grain bed.  It will have a lower blade that is wide to scoop the grain off the bottom of the tun and a thinner one higher up to help mix the grain on top:


The xxx will be cut out. The blade is 4 x 5", with the bottom blade 2" at the base tapering to 3" at the end and the top blade being 1" at the base tapering to 2". The taper lets me bend the blade back so gain can fold over the top.  Once cut out, I zip tied it to the ice cream mixer blade and bent then to shape by hand.  These have less drag. So now I have a wide blade that can be used in high water to grist ratio mashes and a narrow one for more dense mashes.





Saturday, January 19, 2013

RYEPA All Grain Brew

RYEPA All-grain recipe

absolutely love rye whiskey, so I thought I'd give a rye infused brew a try. This recipe  from NB seemed to call to my name, although I decided to tinker with it and back-load a bit more dry hops into the secondary. I went with a blend of hops, Falconer's Flight 7C's. Fingers crossed for a smooth takeoff!

I got this all grain kit from Northern Brewer:

http://www.northernbrewer.com/


Taken form an official NORTHERN BREWER Instructional Document (The blue text is my notes).

With a reddish-golden hue and a good balance of firm body and lingering bitterness, this brew is a showcase of both hops and grain. The fruity/floral notes of Palisade hops are a perfect complement to the spicy flavor of rye malt. 

O.G: 1065 READY: 6 WEEKS 
Suggested fermentation schedule: 
-- 1–2 weeks primary; 2 weeks secondary; 
2 weeks bottle conditioning 

MASH INGREDIENTS 
-- 9.25 lbs. Rahr 2-row Pale 
-- 3 lbs. Briess Rye Malt 
-- 1 lbs. Briess Caramel 40L 
-- 0.25 lbs. Briess Caramel 80L 

MASH SCHEDULE: SINGLE INFUSION 
  • Sacch’ Rest: 152° F for 60 minutes. (Note: Strike water 170F, Grain 61F, 13q SW added, temp eq at 149F let sit for first 30min then added 2q boiling water to get 152F for the last 30 min. Total 16q added to mash). 
  • Mashout: 168° F for 10 minutes. (Note: Added 6q boiling water but only hit 157F...  would need too much volume with this high grain bill so will just leave it at 157F for 10 min.) 

LAUTER
  • Recirculated for 10 min before collecting wort. 
  • Sparged 22q of 170F water, and collected 6.5 gal of wort in 30 min. 

BOIL ADDITIONS & TIMES 
(Note: 30 min to boil). 
  1. 0.75 oz. Warrior (60 min) 
  2. 1 oz. Palisade (15 min) 
  3.  0.5 oz. Palisade (5 min) 
  4. 0.5 oz. Palisade (dry hop) (Modification: Skipped the 5 min Palisade addition and was going to  moved it to 1oz dry hop, but decided to go big on hops and added 2 oz of Falconer's Flight 7C's from Hop Tech. ) 
  5.  Boil time 65min. Used wort chiller for work min until the temp read 69F. 

YEAST 
LIQUID YEAST OPTION: 
Wyeast 1056 American Ale. 
Temperature Range: 60–72° F. 

FERMENTATION 
  • Just shy of 5 gallons made it into the fermenter. 
  • Refractometer says wort is 12.1 Brix or 1.045 O.G.. lower than the recipe estimates (1.065). 
  • Aerated for 30 sec with forced oxygen. 
  • Pitched yeast at 72F (packet activated for 1.5 hrs... a little short) 
  • Temp D1 70F, D2 70 to 68F, D3 68F-fermentation slowed, D4 66F-fermentation over.
  • Racked to secondary after 8 days. Dry hopped in a bag one week into the two weeks in the secondary (boil the bag for 10 min to sterilize, makes bottling easier.). Three days before bottling  I placed the fermenter in a cold room and dropped the temp to 56F.
  • Bottled after two weeks in the secondary and let the beer carbonate for 11 days at 68F. FG 1.008 5% alcohol if you go by the refrac or 7 by the recipe. I think my refrac is giving low readings compared to my new hydrometer, which is spot on with the recipe, so I'm ditching the refrac.
  • The beer had a nice hoppiness balanced by a dry nutty body, delish. The body is a bit light, so would add more to the grain bill or mash at a higher temp next time. Also, the dry hop wasn't as robust, so I think I'll stop using the hop bag.  Lots of haze as well, so I'll try some whirlfloc in the boil  or polyclar 10 in the secondary on my next brew and see how that affects the clarity. After a week or so in the fridge the haze is starting to settle and the cleared part tastes much better (less bitter more hoppy) so with patience I think this beer will turn out good. The brew was hazy from the mash, which was low temp, so maybe this is a case of starch haze. Will treat a bottle with amylase and see what happens.... and nothing did so maybe grain husks?  A few more weeks with more settling and the beer flavor is improving. 

Update: After 2 months in the fridge some of the haze has settled out and the beer tastes quite good now! It's a very creamy ale with a nice hoppiness to it.

PRIMING SUGAR 
-- 5 oz Priming Sugar (save for Bottling Day) 


Delicious!




Day 1: Right after pitching the yeast

Day 2: active fermentation!

Jacket to keep my brew warm at night:)

Dry hop in a bag, 2 oz Falconer's Flight 7C's
I use a bag so I can recover more beer for bottling.


The bag sinks into the wort after a few days and a bit of agitation.